Question 1

What is the amp draw of the relay itself when powered on?

Accepted Answer

The long answer here with "tricks" on how to get around the relay pull and hold currents is nothing anyone should pay attention to, in my opinion. I'll start by telling you I'm a retired electrical engineer who abhors those with a little knowledge snowing those with even less under the guise of "helping."
If the armature isn't moved in with sufficient inertia, there will be significantly more arcing which will eventually cause failure. So, no... you can't just pull the contactor in at the lowest voltage the will physically move it.
It's quite possible that your charging condition is while driving (house and chassis batteries on an RV, for instance) and that claimed holding voltage of 3.5V is also ignoring that it is not sufficient to keep the contacts from "bouncing" while driving... which leads to more arcing and a slow death of the contactor.  In both the pull-in and hold conditions, inertia is your enemy.
At just 50% of the rated current, there's more than enough power to weld the contactors closed or cause high resistance leading to thermal destruction.  Especially in these relays where I am doubtful of their rated capacity.  Look at the internals of this "200A" relay in the video I uploaded.  Those two braided conductors are supposed to carry 100A each?  Copper is rated to carry 100A when it is 2AWG!  This is why actually high-current control is accomplished with contactors, not relays.  See in the video where a large metal conductor is pulled into place across two contact points simultaneously.  THAT is how high current is conducted without leading to disasters in a plastic box.  Also, take notice of the ring terminals they provide to connect to the 1/4" lugs on this relay.  You really think you can pass anywhere near 200A through those?  I wouldn't try 20A.  But, I digress.

The absurdity of charging a capacitor and then trickling 20mA into it makes no sense as the cap is in parallel with the contactor coil and will discharge much faster than that. How random is 2200uF? How is that a "good size capacitor"? When people speak in vague terms, your BS detector should go off. Why not 2000uf or 1800uF? If 2200uF is "good" is 2800uF better?
So, please don't take advice from barracks lawyers or you'll end up in jail. :-)

Question 2

will this 200 amp relay work for powering a 1500 watt inverter with relay engaged contanstly? Thanks.

Accepted Answer

Yes, this is a continuous duty relay capable of handling up to 200A @ 12V DC.  The 1500W inverter should only be drawing 125A @ 12V DC, which is within the relay's capacity.  Hope this helps.

Question 3

How much voltage does it take to connect curcuit

Accepted Answer

The trigger takes 12 V, 14V max and utilizes about 150 milliamp.  Hope this helps.

Question 4

Is there a version of this relay that has an 87a terminal?

Accepted Answer

Unfortunately, we do not carry these high amperage relays with a normally closed terminal.  Below is one which is rated at 60A normally closed and 80A normally open.  Hope this helps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCA6CAB

Manufacturer	ONLINE LED STORE
Part number	PSZACCEPS140R
Item Weight	95.2 g
Product Dimensions	8.26 x 5.08 x 5.08 cm; 95.25 g
Item model number	PSZACCEPS140R
Size	120A
Wattage	1440 watts
Item Package Quantity	1
Measurement System	Imperial
Plug Profile	Pole
Batteries Included?	No
Batteries Required?	No

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ONLINE LED STORE 12V DC 120 Amp Split Charge Relay Switch - 4 Terminal Relays for Truck Boat Marine

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