Ximimark 4pcs 3.5mm Audio Video Connector with Nut - Black

Considering the cost and shipping speed these are well made. I used one to modify my headphones to have a hack connector rather than replacing the wire. It holds on fine and it takes decent force to cause any audio cut out. I had no issues soldering to the connector at all. Its staying in place very well and the nut seems perfectly sized. The only criticism I have is I wish they were a big smaller in circumference to make it easier to fit in tighter places. Also, it would have been nice to have the connector layout included but figuring that out isn't difficult by simply using a meter and a wire plugged into the jack.

Exactly as described

I Highly Recommend the Ximimark Audio jack for modding headphones from a fixed cable to removable. I used the Ximimark on my Audio Technica ATH-M50 and Audio Technica ATH-AD900 with wonderful results. I've had them for 6 months and I am still very happy with their performance.The nature of such modifications will in most cases require some altering of the headphones. In my case I had to both grind and cut parts of the headphones to accommodate the jack as well as to have the wires sit in a more natural position once soldered to the jack. I added some very brief notes at the end as well as photos of the installation.In the box:Four 3.5mm TRS (3-pole) panel mount audio jacks. Each with screw hex nut for retentionPros:-Clean understated visual design integrates seamlessly into headphones.- simple solid retention system- makes a firm connection when auxiliary cable is plugged into it.- sturdy construction that remained undamaged during tight installation- inexpensive when compared to other similar recessed unit.Things to consider (not really cons)::- product does not ship with any documentation so you should test that you are connecting to the proper wire to the proper terminal before soldering- rear pin design adds length to the unit so installation may require more modification of headphones versus other pin design.- be aware that although the diagram shows the width of the socket to be 7mm I found the threading using for the retention nut makes the thickness more like 7.85mmInstallation:The unit slides into a ~7.85mm opening and is held in place by the included screw on hex nut that sits on the opposite end to the opening. The maximum thickness of the material that will accommodate when the threading just clears the hex nut is ~ 2.38mm. The prongs are at the back of the unit. I had no issues soldering the existing wires to the three new terminals. There is plenty of space to work and each terminal has a hole for added mechanical strength when making the connection.In both cases installation required that I increase the size of the existing opening left behind by the cable. Grinding a larger opening was simple on the M50 at it is plastic but the AD900 uses a metal so harder to grind and produced heat which limited my speed. Once the opening was made I moved to clearing out enough internal space in the ear cups so the jacks would rest without any pressure pushing on them. There are great tutorials online that explain in far greater detail but I include some photos just to give you an idea how I approached the issue.

Ok

Decent quality for the price point; but SUPER easy to overheat/melt while soldering the leads on. Even with minimal heat, plenty of flux, proper tip, etc still melted the housing/loosened up the tabs when headed enough to properly flow the solder.

I dislike the fact that the product does not come with a wiring diagram, but that said, my product came with two short pins and one long pin, and after having an idea and putting a multimeter on a length of TRS headphone cable, I found out that the long pin is the neutral or negative wire, whereas the gold looking short pin is the red wire on my cable connected to it, and the silver looking pin appears to be the brown wire, although it could easily be a non-standard audio cable since it's brown instead of blue but my guess is that it is analogous to the blue wire... So... Using the standard of the red wire being right channel,(which my testing cable has) I will say the long pin is negative, the gold colored pin is Right channel, and the silver colored pin is Left channel... It's only a guess of course, but since the seller basically told me it doesn't matter at all which is which, and since 2 out of 3 test cable wires are standard color, I'll say that my pinout is correct, at least, for the product I received, so YMMV if your product has switched pins or otherwise looks different... If you would like a photo representation of the pinout I have a rudimentarily done photo I have included, that shows basically what the 3pin pinout on my units were likely to be...

This a 4 pole jack pinned with only 3 pins - to function correctly it should be pins 1 (left), 2 (right), and 3 (ground). Instead they are pinned 1 (left), 2 (right), 4(ground). This works correctly if connected to a 3 conductor audio cable - but if the 4th conductor is present on the cable then pin 4 of the cable (microphone) is instead contacting what's supposed to be the ground of this connector, and it will not work correctly.If used for headphones, the circuit no longer has a ground when connected to a 4-pole audio cable, because the microphone pin is floating. That results in the audio circuit becoming a differential drive between left and right driver signals - if the left driver or right driver is active, the audio will play over both - if both drivers are active, it will play over neither.The pin numbers are on the back - check that it's correctly pinned to 1, 2, 3 and not 1, 2, 4 before using in a project.

At first glance these female mini-phono connectors looked fine for my project, making an iambic paddle for Morse Code.But when I tried plugging a jack into one, the socket seemed defective, as the jack would not fully plug in, as if they were incompatible. I tried one of the other sockets, and an old headphone cord. None of these other jacks worked either.Returning to Amazon, I read some of the product reviews and found the answer.Achieving full penetration takes more than normal insertion force on initial entry. It takes a hard push and after that it performs fine.Although there was supposed to be a schematic showing which jack sections connected to which socket pins, I found none in my package. Using a multimeter, I figured it out and drew my own diagram.